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GENERAL INFORMATION

The decision to add a ferret to your family
must never be made on impulse. Prospective
owners are encouraged to learn everything
they can before deciding to purchase. To many people, ferrets make the perfect pet, but as with cats, dogs, birds, iguanas, etc. ferrets are not for everyone. Please, for the sake of the ferret, consider the following information before you make a decision.

Most unwanted ferrets are bought from pet
stores which do not provide their customers
with adequate information. This leads new
owenrs to become "disconnected" from their
new companion and doomed to failure from
the start. These people become frustrated
with their ferret and either give it away to
someone else who has no knowledge of
ferrets or they abandon it to a Humane Society. Even worse, many ferrets are locked in cages for the rest of their lives, completely isolated from human interaction while other are simply dumped outdoors to fend for themselves. Please remember that ferrets cannot survive in the wild, and will die within days if not found.



FEEDING

Because ferrets have a high metabolic rate and eat 9-10 small meals a day, food and a constant supply of fresh water must be made available at all times. Water is essential as ferrets are prone to dehydration. The bulk of a ferret's diet should include a premium quality low ash dry cat food. Cow's milk should not be given as it will cause diarrhea. (Lactose-reduced milk can be given in small quantities and is especially good for older ferrets).

All ferrets love Ferretone but it should be given in moderation, a few drops a day because it is a vitamin supplement. Linatone is not recommended as it contains too much Vitamin A, which is toxic in large doses. Fruits and vegetables (including raisins) should be should be given only as an occasional treat; ferrets are not able to digest fiber. Dog biscuits broken into very small pieces can be given in limited quantities. Sweets and sugar should be avoided.

Heavy ceramic dishes make the best containers for food and water as they cannot be easily overturned.


DO YOU HAVE TIME FOR A FERRET?

Ferrets are delightful, social creatures who crave human attention. They must not be confined to a cage without the opportunity for exercise and interaction with you at least twice a day for several hours. You must be prepared to make adjustments in your daily life to accommodate the needs of your ferret. If you do not allow your ferret the exercise and companionship that it needs on a daily basis, it will become unhappy and stressed and will suffer from physiological and mental problems.

HOUSING

Are you willing to house your ferrets properly?

Ferrets do not mind being housed in a cage as long as they are allowed out for daily regular exercise. A proper cage is a must and should be big enough to hold a large litter box, food and water dishes and plenty of room for bedding. (Rabbit cages are too small for ferrets). On the other hand, an ideal living arrangement for ferrets is to house them in a small ferret-proofed room. This does not mean that they should be confined to the room for their entire existence. Ferrets are people-oriented. They must have human contact every day and become depressed when constantly left alone. They must be allowed to run and romp with you at least twice a day.

All areas where ferrets are allowed to play must be ferret-proofed.

Most ferrets love the company of other ferrets and will spend hours chasing and wrestling each other. Says one ferret owner, "I can't imagine having only one ferret."

In fact, even though many sources say that one ferret alone will be very happy if you give it attention, compared to the fun of two (or three) can have, a single ferret owner is missing out big time. In fact the tactics used by ferrets when three of them are playing at the same time are quite amusing. (Probably because of the amount of backstabbing used). " Writes an experienced ferret fancier, "I have maintained for many, many years that the worst number of ferrets one could have in terms of demand on your time and patience is one. "

Although some books indicate that an adult ferret will accept another after a short adjustment period, our experience has shown that this is not always the case. Some ferrets, when introduced to each other, become friends immediately, yet for others it takes weeks and even months of patience on the part of the humans before the ferrets will accept each other. In other cases, some ferrets will simply never learn to accept another. The bottom line is that it is much easier to integrate ferrets when they are younger rather than later after one has established territory.

If you are away from home all day, a pair of ferrets will keep each other company.

IS A FERRET RIGHT
FOR YOU?
Ferrets are part of the Mustelidae family, their relatives include otters, minks, weasels, and ermines. Unlike other members of their family, ferrets are NOT wild animals. In fact, ferrets have been so thoroughly domesticated that their ability to survive in the wild is virtually non-existent.

They are intelligent, curious, and joyful animals who love to run and romp throughout their entire lives. The males generally weigh 3-4 pounds and the females 1-3 pounds. Their average lifespan is 6-9 years.

Ferrets spend 18-20 hours a day sleeping regardless of their age. For this reason they make perfect pets for people who are not home during the day. Many people who are allergic to cats and dogs will find they are not allergic to ferrets.

FERRET PROOFING: BASIC TIPS

One of the most important things you can do to safeguard your ferret is to ensure there is absolutely NO way for them to escape to the outer world or into openings in your home.

Don't underestimate the abilities of a ferret, they are more than capable of getting into or under the smallest of openings and able to move heavy things outs of their way! Ferret proofing is not a one time job, it is a constant endeavor that our fuzzies prove time and again. Equally important is to ensure there is nothing dangerous or poisonous (especially house plants and potpourri) within their reach as ferrets are more than capable of jumping and climbing to get to items that catch their attention, as well as dig through the dirt of your favorite houseplant. Common household items that are usually over looked in protecting your fuzzy are the buttons on your remote control which they can swallow, parts of a toy they can chew off and swallow and the infamous styrofoam packing peanuts. All of these items can cause serious life threatening health problems to a ferret which can easily be avoided.

Due to the size and endless curiosity of the ferret, they will always find new ways and new territories to explore. Prior to bringing home your first ferret, it is vital to their safety and well-being that there be no openings they can get into or under. The best way to accomplish this is to literally lay on the floor in every room and search out spaces, openings, etc. they can get into and close them up. This applies to cabinets which they can open as well, you certainly don't want your ferret to come into contact with any dangerous chemicals, so child proofing is strongly recommended. As previously mentioned, ferret proofing is not a one shot deal, you will always need to keep an eye on your ferret as they show you new territory they can get in to.

ARE YOU WILLING/ABLE TO MEET THE FINANCIAL OBLIGATIONS?

As with any animal, the cost of upkeep will far exceed the initial cost. You must be prepared to supply your ferret with premium cat food and a good quality litter. Ferrets require annual trips to the veterinary clinic for a check-up and a distemper shot (canine distemper is 100% fatal in ferrets).

As with all animals, ferrets are susceptible to certain diseases such as cancer, heart disease, diabetes, dental disease, pneumonia and colds, to name a few. It is important to take time out each day to observe your pet's physical condition and behavior. Any changes in your ferret's health should be dealt with promptly. Intestinal blockages in ferrets are serious and can lead to death if surgery is not performed. Would you be willing to provide your ferret with the necessary medical care should expensive surgery be required?

MEDICAL CARE

Canine distemper is 100% fatal in ferrets - the only protection is vaccination. Never assume because your ferret never goes outside that it cannot contact canine distemper. You can bring the virus into your home on your clothes, shoes, etc. and not even know it. Your ferret does not need to come in contact with another infected animal to contact the disease (as is the case with rabies). Ferrets should be vaccinated against the disease at 6-8 weeks and again at 10-12 weeks. Booster vaccinations must be given annually.

Since your ferret lives indoors with the occasional excursion outdoors on a leash, there is very little chance of it being exposed to rabies. But should your ferret nip someone, its life could be on the line, not because of rabies but due to the overreaction of hysterical humans. The surest protection is a documented history of annual rabies vaccinations. All ferrets should have an annual check-up.

NEUTERING AND DESCENTING

Along with the obvious reason to neuter or spay pets (i.e. to control the number of unwanted animals), ferrets require this procedure for health reasons. If females are not spayed they can develop uterine infections or aplastic anemia (caused by constant heats) which is usually life threatening.

If males are not neutered they can become aggressive and are harder to litter train. Descenting is necessary because ferrets have anal scent glands which give off a strong odor. The odor of a descented ferret comes from oils in the skin. Neutering and descenting should be done at about six months of age.

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